No worries.

If you ask them, you might find the CPU vendor actually might install it for free. Their thinking might be that if they do it, it'll be done right; if the buyer does it, they might damage the chip, not install the heatsink properly etc. which might cause it to overheat and fail later and cause a warranty repair. So, from their POV it might be a good insurance policy to do free installs of CPU upgrades for end-users.

For sure, you could ask - the worst that could happen would be they say no ;-)

>Hi Al.
>
>Too bad stars aren't valid for CHATTER, because you've gone the whole nine yards plus! I appreciate that.
>
>I must say, though, that a $25. or so fee for someone who knows what s/he's doing sounds much wiser to me. I think I'll update the BIOS sometime soon, then get the place I buy the CPU to do the install.
>
>Thanks!
>
>
>>>With AMD's recent big price cuts and dual processors being all the rage, I'm thinking of getting one.
>>>
>>>My motherboard (a misnomer if I ever saw one) - ASUS A8V Deluxe - apparently supports the AMD X2s, needing a BIOS upgrade to do so.
>>>
>>>I've replaced just about everything in a PC box over the years, but never a processor with a heat sink.
>>>
>>>Is there a specific sequence of events that have to be done?
>>>- I *guess* I can update the BIOS before even buying the CPU. Correct?
>>>
>>>Can I do it in-situ, or do I have to dis-assemble the box to do it?
>>>
>>>Is there some trick to be aware of to pull the old one?
>>
>>- Make sure the upgrade CPU matches your current mobo socket (probably socket 939). Some current dual-core AMD X2 processors are for the new AM2 socket
>>
>>- When buying your new CPU, ask if you can re-use your existing heatsink/fan or if you need a new one (because of a different die surface etc.). Don't second-guess their recommendation.
>>
>>- You can upgrade the BIOS before upgrading the CPU. By all means do so, if the mobo won't support an X2 processor without the BIOS upgrade it may not boot to let you do it later (classic chicken & egg situation).
>>
>>Most white-box computer vendors will assemble an entire computer from a kit of parts for about $25. I'm sure any of them would do a new CPU installation for you for that price or less. If you decide to go this route, just take in your system unit. They will remove the mobo, do the upgrade and reconnect everything for you. They will have a test monitor/keyboard/mouse combo there to check that the system boots properly after the upgrade.
>>
>>If you're interested in doing this yourself:
>>
>>- Don't try to replace the CPU in-situ - remove the mobo from the case. First disconnect all power and signal cables and add-in cards (in the slots). In ATX systems the mobo is mounted on a pan, which is typically secured to the case by a single screw near the keyboard/mouse ports.
>>
>>- The heatsink/fan is typically attached by a spring clip that hooks under projections at the sides of the CPU socket. Usually you have to push down on the clip firmly to be able to unhook it. Make note of how the clip hooks onto the socket for reinstallation (the clips are often asymmetric).
>>
>>- Release the ZIF socket lever and remove the old CPU.
>>
>>- If you're reusing your old heatsink/CPU, clean thermal paste residue off the bottom of the heatsink. Make sure it is VERY clean and the mating surface is perfectly flat.
>>
>>- Install the new CPU in the ZIF socket and secure with the lever.
>>
>>- This is the tricky part - installing the heatsink/fan. Put a *thin, even* layer of thermal paste on top of the CPU die where it will contact the heatsink. With thermal paste, full & even coverage is an absolute necessity, but thicker is *NOT* better. The paste is there simply to fill in any microscopic gaps that would otherwise exist between the top of the CPU die and the heatsink surface. These microscopic gaps would otherwise be filled with air, which is a good insulator and which would cause poor thermal conduction and local hotspots on the CPU die. Bear in mind that excess paste will get squeezed out to the sides, and may serve to conduct heat to portions of the chip package surrounding the die (e.g. interconnects) that certainly don't need it. For an extreme example of what can go wrong with too much paste, see http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=199840
>>
>>- Making sure the spring clip orientation WRT the CPU socket is correct, lower the heatsink/fan onto the CPU. Try to drop in on as closely and squarely to its final installed location as possible. You'll find that one side of the spring clip can be easily attached to the CPU socket. Making absolutely sure the heatsink is level and squarely mounted, press down on the spring clip and clip the other side under the CPU socket projections. You may find it requires considerable force to do this. That's OK as long as the heatsink is square and level. If it is not, you run the risk of cracking a corner off the CPU die, or breaking it completely.
>>
>>- If you've found you've twisted or slid the heatsink around significantly while trying to attach it to the CPU socket (e.g. more than a few millimeters, or say, 25% of the size of the CPU die), you may have scraped too much of the thermal paste away from the top of the CPU die. Remove the heatsink, clean both it and the CPU die, reapply thermal paste and try again.
>>
>>- Mobo reinstallation/reconnection is the reverse of the above.
>>
>>Good luck!