>>>>>Hi,
>>>>>
>>>>>My Euro customers says a forms that my app prints needs to be "adjusted" to their paper size A4. I tried printing the same form to my printer, selecting the paper size A4 and I don't see a difference. Of course, my actual paper is 8.5" by 11".
>>>>>
>>>>>What do you suggest I need to do - or emulate - their "issue"? How do you deal with this, if you have Euro customers?
>>>>>
>>>>>TAI
>>>>
>>>>https://uk.onlinelabels.com/articles/what-s-the-difference-between-a4-and-us-letter-paper-sheets.htm
>>>>in a nutshell, in portrait orientation, A4 size paper is slightly narrower and slight taller than US letter size
>>>>letter size: 8.5" x 11"
>>>>A4: 8.27" x 11.69"
>>>>where you're most likely to see the problem is with print going outside of the printable area (i.e. it gets "cut off" near the edge).
>>>
>>>Nice article. And thank you for the explanation regarding the printable area.
>>>I think the entire world should conform to the American standards (just kidding)
>>
>>Paper size is one of those things I have to deal with in my hobby activities -- I like to build papercraft models. As papercraft modeling is generally more popular in Europe and Asia than in the USA (where the preference tends to lean toward injection-molded plastic models), most of the models I end up downloading are designed for A4 size paper. Attempting to print on US letter size paper or cardstock results in some problems:.
>>* unless designed to allow for both A4 and US letter, there's a risk that after printing some parts may end up outside the printable area of the page.
>>* when there are "front" and "back" sides that need to be printed -- different page size also means the printing of front and back don't align
>>* rescaling to page may work to keep parts from going off the page, it could also mean problem with the parts fit because the individual pages weren't scaled consistently (especially a problem when the separate sheets appear as separate files)
>>* Printing on the correct-size paper would seem to obviate scaling and alignment problems -- though there is the issue of getting the paper. Haven't found many vendors in the USA that will sell A4 size paper. Ordering from overseas would be required -- though in most cases there's likely a minimum order size (e.g. a ream or worse an entire case), then shipping charges due to weight could make that pricey (aside from that I'll end up with more than a lifetime's worth of paper).
>>* Even if I could get the right size paper -- the printer may not be equipped to handle it (in stock configuration), and may require me to special-order an additional feed tray (if available) to handle alternate paper sizes.
>
>Can you show (in a picture) an example of a papercraft models you built? Just curious (never done or hear of it).
>As far as A4 paper, quick search on Amazon.com shows that you can order it. Not sure that a printer you have will work though.

Don't have any photos of my built models, but here are some links of some sites from which I've obtained papermodel data:
http://www.fiddlersgreen.net/
http://aliens.humlak.cz/
http://uhu02.way-nifty.com/die_eule_der_minerva/
http://ojimak.web.fc2.com/index.html
http://www.wa.commufa.jp/~ton/pcc/index.html

Some advantages of paper models over plastic models:
* easier to do "on-the-cheap" -- model data can often be downloaded for free or at relatively low cost.
* if I mess up with a certain part, I can simply print another. With a plastic model, I'd have to purchase another model kit.
* easier to avoid noxious fumes -- definite consideration if you live in an apartment. paper models can be assembled with white glue. plastic models require solvent-based glues with noxious fumes. Markings and details on paper models are often printed onto the paper -- so usually I don't have to paint them. Plastic models usually mean paints that give off noxious fumes.
* with the right software I can often resize the model -- either larger or smaller -- not something that I could do with a standard plastic model.
* injection-molded kits can be cheap only if the costs could be kept down. The biggest expenditure for manufacturer is the tooling that is generally machined from steel -- which is durable and can be used over long production runs -- and only makes sense for subjects that are to see high production runs. Tooling for cast resin would be cheaper since materials like low-temp vulcanizing rubber could be utilized to make molds. Downside of course is that such materials are significantly more fragile, and only lasts enough for a relatively low number of models produced. Though cheaper, the low production counts generally mean cast resin models have a higher per-unit cost, but ends up being a better fit for something that might have limited appeal (i.e. anybody who is interested is probably more likely to buy it despite higher cost). The production of paper models generally don't require any special tooling, so it's easier to support even lower production runs -- meaning that it's probably easier to find obscure subjects in paper model form.