>I have a temporary new surface today I am testing with. Basically, I end up in the same situation. Now, here is some interesting info. When that happens, I simply move the mouse to the other surface and it start acting ok. Then, in the seconds following that, I simply move back the mouse on the initial surface and all is ok. So, it seems when that happens the mouse looses its scan. Moving into a new surface and back to the original resets it. Do you know the reason for that?
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>The temporary surface I have today is the upcoming new top for the desk. So, before giving the final confirmation, I need to make sure the problem is not related to the surface. Something seems to conflict with the mouse. When it does, I have to move the mouse to another surface and it starts working. This is the case when I use it on the usual surface of my desk. But, today, when testing with a prototype (12"x14"), I experience the same.
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>The new surface is black all over but with some kind of non smooth effect. So, it is not a piano black or mirror. It is a clean surface and my impression is that the problem is not the surface.

As I've said before, the ideal surface is one that has strong/distinct (high contrast), random features that can be tracked by the mouse optics. Black is not a great colour because it absorbs light, so it's absorbing the LED illumination and in photographic terms the images it's taking are underexposed.

You probably want a black desk surface for decor reasons. That's fine, just get a mouse pad with a better surface.

Some other things to check or watch out for:

- Some mouse pads have a soft surface. They are basically a stretch fabric like Spandex over neoprene. These are bad for both optical and mechanical mice because as you press down to register a click, the surface gives, and the mouse interprets this as motion. In Windows a click won't register if the mouse pointer is moving during the click.

- A weak battery in the mouse. Also, if you have replaced alkaline batteries with rechargeables. Alkalines are 1.5v, common rechargeable NiMH are 1.2V which may not be enough for the mouse circuitry.

- Make sure the drivers are updated, and exactly correct for the make/model of mouse. I've seen lots of cases where a Logitech mouse is hooked up to a computer that's using MS drivers. It mostly works fine but extra buttons may not work at all, or as expected

- Maybe the mouse is bad. Super-cheap Asian mice are sometimes spotty quality (especially if they're using super-cheap Asian batteries). If you're using a MS or Logitech mouse, is it real or a knockoff?

- Can you test with a wired optical USB mouse? That would help determine if various mouse surfaces are OK. You can have 2 or more mice plugged into the same computer simultaneously with no problems.